Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, was the capital of a much larger country for much of the twentieth century. It still has a dynamism and urban atmosphere that make the other former Yugoslav capitals feel a little provincial in comparison. Like many Balkan cities, an eventful history has left it without many conventionally beautiful buildings, but it compensates with a dramatic location at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. The rivers are overlooked by the Kalemagdan citadel, and the Kalemagdan park, one of the nicest city parks in Europe. This is a wonderful place to enjoy an ice cream and an evening stroll along with the locals.